Vaella Laella

23 nisan cocuk senliklerinde artvindeydik. bizi oyle guzel karsiladilar ki yine cok sevdim artvini. ossi ailesinden sanna  istanbulun guzelligine dayanamayarak bir kac ay takilmis. artvinde yakaladi bizi. hep birlikte cocuklarin yuzlerini,gozlerini, ellerini boyayip gurcistan yollarina koyulduk.

gurcistana gecer gecmez bizim karadenizin denizi doldurma sahane (!!) yollari geride kaldi. kucuk dolambacli yesil ve mavinin birbirine aktigi guzellige gomulduk. betondan buyuk binalar artik onumuze cikmaz oldu. koycukler gectik; yesilin uzerinde ozgurce dolasan atlar, esekler,inekler, buffalolar ve domuzcuklarla dolu…onca savassal sorunlara ragmen huzurla ayakta bu ulke..doganin gucu yetiyor da hissetmiyor insan puruzleri..

sansimiza batumun yakinindaki botanik bahcelerinin oraya vardik. botanik orman yani..ben sabah yuruyusune ciktigimda farketmeden kac saat yuruduysem aklimi alan bitkiler arasinda botanik bahceden cikip sasilmayacak sekilde kayboldum (genelde geliyor basima boyle seyler). yolumu bulmaya cabalarken bir gurcu kizla tanistim turkce bilen. evine gittim, kahve pisirdi ve biraz sohbetten sonra da yolumu gosterdi ve gulumseyerek ayrildi birlesen yureklerimiz. yol boyu da boyle gonlu acik insanlarla dolu gurcistan. bize ekmekler,katchapuriler (peynirli pide, borek cesitleri), saraplar ikram ediyorlar.

 birkac gun de sahilde dev papatyalarla kalip karadenizle vedalastik. yavas yavas da guvenligimiz icin 24 saat bizimle beraber olan gurcistan polisiyle tanismak durumunda kaldik. artik hep beraber yiyip iciyor, birlikte geziyorduk. bir aksam polis bizi anlayabilmek icin koyun ingilizce ogretmeni nana”yi getirip bizimle tanistirinca bir kez daha acildi yollarimiz gonlumuzun istedigine. hemen ertesinde 2 gun okulda cocuklarla kukla tiyatrosu yaptik, oyunlar oynadik. okulda mudurun odasinda gurcistan yemekleri senligi verdiler bize oglen icin. turkiyedeki ramazan sofralarini andiran masada olan tum yemekleri mutlaka tatmamiz gerekiyordu. saraplari da  toss (serefe yaparken uzun bi konusma yapiyolar icmeye baslamadan once) yaptik cocuklara verdigimiz molada. o aksam nana”nin evinin bahcesindeydi ossibussi. ossibussi ailesi de evde nananin arkadaslari ,ogrencileri, gozleri parildayan kafkas danscisi kiziyla birlikte…nana”yla da veda vakti geldi;sabrina, enerjisine ve varligina tesekkur ederek ayrildik.

piril piril bir nehrin kenarina vardik. perilerle dolu selalelere, yagmur ormanlarina daldik polis arkadaslarla beraber. ilk basta doganin icinde yapacak birsey bulamiyor canlari bunaliyor rus teknosu dinliyordu arkadaslar ama son gun nehirde yuzmeye basladilar aksam da ates yakip sarkilar soylediler yurekleri tasarak..

cilgin gurcistan yollarina aldirmadan yesil patlamasi yasayan svaneti daglarina da ciktik. osssi zorlandi biraz ama koyvermedi yolda bizi. biz de gurcistanin yol calismalarina katkida bulunduk ilerleyebilmek icin;once  kazma kurek kendimize yol yapiyor sonra da asiyorduk karli tepelere dogru patikalari..daglari onumuzdeki bir kac ay boyunca goremeyecegiz diye doyasiya kokladik ormanlari.

daglardan inince dunyanin en eski sehirlerinden birine manastirlarin ortasinda kurulu kutaisiye vardik. bir yetimhanede cocuklarla calistik; oyle kolay ki cocuklari mutlu etmek. iclerindeki kaynaga henuz yetiskinlerden daha bagli olduklari icin hemencecik cigliklarla cosuyorlar. onlarla birlikte benim de cosuyor yuregim. hepimizin ici daha bi isiniyor  sanki cocuklarla..seviyoruz onlari..

tiblise dogru yola ciktik ama ossibussi yoruldu artik. gidemez oldu. durdu. yine sihirli bir yerde. sadece 200 metre otede araba tamircisi varken ve yanibasimizda kocaman tertemiz bir nehir ve uzerinde sallanan eski tahtadan bir kopru. simdi ossinin debriyaji degisiyor ve yenileniyor. kendini hazir hissettiginde yola koyulacak yine. dun aksam sahane biber dolmasi yedik, bu sabah da turk usulu finlandiya kahvaltisi. yani cesit bol ama fin tadindaJ. ossinin altinda ustalar calisiyor ama icinde herzamanki gibi her ne olursa olsun hayat devam ediyor sanki hicbirsey olmamis gibi. olani tepkisizce kabullenip; simdiyi yasayarak, anda kalarak.. aciktik, yemek yiyoruz..sorunlar da zamanla zaten halloluyor, endiseye gerek yok…ah ne guzel! icimden keske yine bir nehir bulsak geciyordu tiblisten once…

sevgiyle…sihirle…

aylin

 Gamarjoba!

Jo viikon paivat Tbilisin kupeessa, mainiossa autiossa puutarhassa parkissa, Armas - nimisessa kylassa, eli ei voi olla paha paikka!:) Sielta kasin on ollut helppoa seikkailla maan paakaupunkiin, lahes kahden miljoonan Tbilisiin  asioille. Ja asioitahan on: tarkoitus on saada viisumi piakkoin Azerbaijaniin ja mika toivottavaa, edullisesti. Ilman kutsua kyseisesta maasta hinta olisi per henkilo sadan dollarin hujakoilla… uhhuh. Mutta suuri operaatio on kaynnissa, azerbaijanin sos - lastenkyla pyrkii lapaisemaan byrokratiat ja saamaan meille kutsut konsulaattiin. Pitakaa peukkuja!

Tbilisissa nakyy kansan tyytymattomyys presidenttiin. Paakatu Rustaveli  on ollut puoltoista kuukautta autoilta suljettuna, taynna mielenosoittajien kojuja. Toisinaan mielenosoitukset ovat aityneet mellakoiksi, joskaan meidan taalla oloaikana ei. Ensi viikon kansallispaivana lienee kuitenkin parempi pysya poissa nailta kulmilta… Yleisatmosfaari on ihmeellisen leppoisa kuitenkin!

Leirissamme majailee nyt piskuinen kissanpentu, joka seurasi kotiinpalaavia matkalaisia viiden kilometrin matkan… Eika tama viela kaikki hanen urheudestaan , vaan toissayona kissaa puri kaarme ja se koomasi vuorokauden. Vaan nyt leikkii jo ilolla!  Yritamme halle loytaa nyt kotia…  Mieluustihan ottaisin tuon olennon Bussiin vaan voisi koitua kissille haasteeksi tammoinen liikkuva kotikolo:)

a>

Eraana kuumana iltapaivana kavi niin, etta Ossi sanoi Stop yhtakkia… moista ei ole toistaiseksi kaynytkaan.  Ainut vaihde joka enaa toimi oli ykkonen (joka Ossi-speedilla on 5km/tunti). Onnenmyyria kun ollaan autokorjaamo oli alle puolen kilsan paassaa. Tyonnettiin bussi kayntiin ja sitten huoltoon! Ensimmaisena huoltoiltana hommat eteni sen verran, etta ajoimme Ossin jylhalle paikalle huoltoparrujen paalle ja siinahan sitten oltiinkin yon yli… Ossin pera tuli melkein tielle asti ja poliisi oli kovin huolissaan etta joku tormaa meihin  yon aikana… Niinpa laitoimme varoituskolmion ja taskulampun vilkuttamaan Bussin kylkeen.

 Ossi kirurgin poydalla…

Tama seta opasti meidat oikeaan paikkaan ja ymmarsi yskan. Annoimme palkkioksi hatun ja siitakos han oli iloinen.

Seuraavana aamuna saapui sitten itse mekaanikko ja ryhtyi tutkimuksiin, irrotti Ossin massiivisen vaihdelootan ja toi naytille murtuneen kytkinlevyn… Tadaa>

Ja tassa oli Ossin yskan syy> kytkinlevy oli kovin haperossa kunnossa. Mutta kas vain, viereisesta kylasta mekaanikko polkaisi hakemassa uuden levyn ja asensi sen ja kas vain, Ossi selvisi remontista vuorokauden verstaspysakilla ja 60 eurolla!!!! Euroopassa moinen kytkin kunnostus lienee maksanut moninkertaisesti!!!

Paljon oli yleisoa ja poliisikiinnostusta vuorokauden verstas-oleskelun ajan… vaan mika tarkeinta, Ossi on tien paalla taas ja hyrisee entista reippaammin!

One week adventure in remote Svaneti mountains, north Georgia.. Beautiful it was! .. and some challenging roads..

Teimme viikon retken  pohjois-Georgiaan, syrjaisille Svaneti vuorille, kaunista ja haasteellisisa teita…

One day it was raining golden sand, really it was… flying with wind who knows from where!

Eraana paivana maisema oli kullanvarinen… Taivaalta satoi hiekkaa, voi ihme!

Roads werent the best for six tons Bus but we managed! 

Tiet eivat aina olleet suotuisat vaan niinpa selvisimme sinne ja takasin! 

Two weeks has passed in Georgia and we have got into many adventures; in addition of visiting in Kwemo Kwaloni Public school and home, made an exiting journey to north Georgia’s Svaneti mountains and all the time have been followed by the policemen. All in all, there has not been too much chances of missing Turkey or anything else but to be here and now, in Georgia.

Since leaving Nana’s place in Khobi we have always had police companion. They want to guarentee our safety, so they are following us and parking beside us. But oh so polite: they dont force us to leave or hurry us up in the traffic, but they are just there, like ghosts… Well in the beginning it was actually quite annoying, they were parking just two meters from the bus door listening loud russian techno. It seemed to be nature education for policemen too: to make them spend nights in the nature just because of some crazy caravan tourists.

Gabriel and Georgi cutting garlic

Guarding us got even more active when we entered to the area of Svaneti mountains which is remote area in north known of the tourist robberies . So 24 hours Big Brother was watching us. Reaching Svaneti mountains and remote village of Mestia was a bit of challenge itself beacause of the holes in the narrow montain road.

Making the better wooooorld  …. or at least road suitable for Ossi kjih:) with police companion

Police was trying to suggest us to either stay in the yard of the police station or reach a camping place after more holey road, but we insisted to get to stay in the nature and so we did, with our guardian police men, Goba and Robert. They were kind and even gave us lift 15kilometers to Mestia (to where the road was impossible for the Bus).

with Roberto and Goba in Svaneti

Mestia has a long history and strong religious background. Something very touching in the landscape with many many watch towers here and there.

Georgian nature has offered Amazingly beautiful waterfalls with mountain views and lovely rivers and a lot of green!! It seems to be rain and sunshine in nice balance in the springtime here…

This Im writing in our camp after mountain journeys, back to Khobi area by a strange abandonded factory area with thousands of frogs making noise and the police cars just some tens of meters of us. I guess we will be guarded until the boarder of Azerbaizan so some weeks more

Making the road movie on police car:)

After few days in Georgia we got the first English speaking visitor to the Bus. Nana was her name and she told to be an English teacher in local school. She invited us to visit her school and sure we did! It was a perfect chance to start our FriendshipSchool Project  which means connecting Caucasus children by video and letter greetings to Finnish schools or schools in Asia. When visiting a school it is an idea to prepare something on video to be sent to another school in another country. With this video performance can be included some letters of the children for the correspondence.

 So, in Kvemo Kvaloni Public School we worked two days with pupils of 5th grade making puppet theater. First day passed by playing with sounds and making own puppet and the scenery. Second day was for making a play with them and filmed it for sending to Finnish school in Jyvaskyla. . It became “Loma’s Birthday”; everybody got a role and it seemed to be good fun for the children. 

Making the puppets and scenery

Practising… and: The Show Time!

For us it was beautiful to experience Georgian school which in european standard felt like travelling some 50 years back in time. Everybody was of course curious of us and so there was always audience in the workshops.

It was lovely also to visit Nana’s home in Khobi, her two children had full show in traditional dances all evening long…

Since the first moments in Georgia we have got introduced also with the toasting traditions of this country. The host always has to make the toast and there is hundreds of kinds reasons for giving the speech. Also in the school while having a break from the workshop, we got invited for lunch in the teacher’s room and many many toasts with wine for us… Wouldn’t have happened in Finland for sure!!

Thank You, Didi Madloba !!!

Viimeisen Turkin leirimme aamuheratyksesta tekivat erityisen onnellisen lauma delfiineita, jotka tulivat leikkimaan lahivesiin. Ja: heidan suuntansa oli myos kohti Georgiaa! Hyvaa huumoria lahto-aamuun toivat myos poliisit, joilla ei talla kertaa ollut mitaan valitettavaa vaan halusivat kutsua meidat teelle ennenkuin poistumme maasta… Oi mika ystavallinen kadenpuristus kuin anteeksipyydellen koko ammattikunnan puolesta kaikkea viiden kuukauden aikana kokemaamme poliisihassakkaa:)

Rajan yli siis tultiin ja ilman kummempia kommervenkkeja, Georgian rajalla bussia ei edes tarkistettu. Vahan piti jonossa ryysia passit ojossa ja sitten odotella paperihommia. Ainiin jalkikateen paljastui etta periaatteessa Turkkiin on laitonta tuoda yli 20 vuotta vanha auto/ Lisaksi auton oma maalaaminen on laitonta joten pari riketta tuli siis tehtya vaan eipa tuntunut virkavalta piittaavan.

Georgia nayttaytyy huisin vihreana, vehreana, kauniina! Sattumoisin ensimmainen leirimme oli kasvitieteellisen puutarhan naapurissa lahella Batumia; vanhoja jattimaisia puita, alppiruusuja, villeja orkideoja… Hyvaa happea hengittaa…

Sympaattisia ihmisia (ja possuja) myoskin! Useimmat leiriin saapuvista haluaisivat tarjota aterian taikka viinia. Saipa Gabriel kalamiehilta myos pussillisen elavia kaloja, joista yritti kieltaytya vedoten kasvissyontiin mutta totesi etta parempi ottaa lahja vastaan… Kalastajien selkain kaannyttya kalat paasivat takaisin mereen. Vapaata merenrantaa riittaa toisin kuin tayteenrakennettu Turkinpuolinen Mustamerenranta. Ja ilo oli tavata delfiinit jalleen!

Lukuunottamatta taannoisista sisallissota-selkkauksista ja Venajan paineesta karsivia alueita Abkhaziaa ja Etela-Osetiaa, maan sanotaan olevan turvaisa matkustettavaksi ja kansan erityisen vieraanvaraista, kuten olemmekin jo tulleet todenneiksi… Ensipaivien perusteella kauniin lempea energia ymparilla! Aikeet on muinaiseen Kutaisin kaupunkiin, jossa tiedamme sijaitsevan SOS village lastenkodin. Kenties sita ennen pieni retki vuorille, luonnonkauneuksia taalla kun riittaa.

PS: Tanaan OssiBussi on ollut matkassa tasan kahdeksan kuukautta ja samalla matkamittari sanoo: 10 000 kilometria! JEE!